So you want to roam Malaysia's Cameron Highlands, stroll in tea plantations, and pause forcream-slathered scones along the way? You aren't alone. Verdant views and refreshingtemperatures lure travellers from around the country (and beyond) to this hilly region on thewesternmost edge of Pahang state.
Traffic in the Cameron Highlands can be fiendish at weekends, big-hitting attractions often turninto a scrum, and some travellers are starting to murmur about spoiled hiking trails and 'green-washing' by a few rogue tour operators. Despite these grumbles, a little preparation will ensureyou find much to enjoy in this lush corner of Malaysia:excellent hiking, wondrous fauna and the occasional glimpse of serenity amid the tour groupmayhem.
Thirty seconds of Highlands history
British explorer Sir William Cameron first spied these heights in 1885 and gleefully reportedback about their mild climate (at the time, temperatures barely exceeded 20°C). SadlyCameron's maps were lost and little came of his discovery, until a second expedition was sentout 40 years later. Led by Sir George Maxwell, another colonial explorer, the mission torediscover the highlands succeeded and their future was soon sealed with plans to develop plantations, holiday homes for perspiring Brits, and even a golf course.
The Cameron Highlands today
Tourist brochure spin trades on the Cameron Highlands’ colonial history. Cream teasand beef Wellington grace menus; townhouses have been developed into hotels with noexpense spared on period detail; and it's virtually impossible to leave without at least onecuppa.
Much of this nostalgia is manufactured, with Tudor-style fittings clamped onto theexteriors of modern hotels and a lively trade in strawberry-shaped souvenirs. A few otherattractions, like Cactus Valley and the Lavender Farm, were conceived largely as money-spinners that loosely fit the organic vibe of the highlands. But that's not to say they're not fun: visitors rock up intheir thousands to Instagram purple flowers or take home souvenir succulents.
The impact of tourism on the land, however, is cause for concern. Popular nature walk the Mossy Forest boardwalk has been dubbed 'Muddy Forest' as a result of travellers snatching flowers from along the path.Meanwhile there are whispered reports of a few supposedly ecofriendly outfits doing moreharm than good on guided walks, especially regarding damage to rafflesia flowers. Choose your tour provider or guide withcare, and take care to stay on marked paths, refrain from touching plants or feeding wildlife, and take all rubbish out with you.
Treks, teas or temples: choose your Cameron Highlands adventure
Forearmed with the potential pitfalls, here are the unmissable attractions to weave into yourtrip:
Hiking and nature spotting
Fantastic hiking trails through lush forests extend from Tanah Rata, though the trail markings could be improved. Seek advice locally, especially on weather conditions that may make trailsimpassable or dangerous. Always let your guesthouse know your timing and intended route,and never leave without water, maps and some layers. Engage a guide from reputable EcoCameron to hike through a pristine section of theMossy Forest or plan a route to take in some of the Camerons' best birdwatching sites. Forindependent hikes, Trail 4 to Parit Falls is one of the easier and more popular routes. Onlyhardcore hikers with excellent fitness and trekking should attempt Trail 1 (start from the summitand work down) and Trail 8, but both return the effort with remarkable scenery.
Gourmandise and high teas
These hills were made for chilling. The Brits knew it, and you'llknow it too, over a cup of tea at scenic Boh Sungei Palas. Tea aficionados willwant to book in for a tea appreciation tour (9am and 11am Tue-Sun); part-time tea drinkers will besatisfied with a wander in the display rooms and a cuppa overlooking the hills. Cameron Bharatis also afine choice for a brew with a view. The best strawberries can be found at Raaju's; blended fresh drinksand a range of berry-themed cakes are in abundance (if plucking your own strawberries soundslike hard work).
Culture and history
Compared to the temples and museums of Kuala Lumpuror Melaka's jewellery box ofgalleries, the Cameron Highlands couldn't possibly measure up. And surprisingly few attractionsgive authentic insight into highland heritage. Nonetheless, there’s a handful of sights to give youa culture fix: Sam Poh is a well-tended temple complex withformidable golden warrior statues within, while the newly made-over Hindu templeis worth a short trip. As for museums, the Time Tunnel will give you an eccentric glimpse into the region's history.
How long to spend
The Cameron Highlands are doable in a weekend if you simply want a taste of strawberries, asip of tea, and a half-day hike. Hopping aboard a tour group will help whisk you around a fewsights if you don't have a car; try . If you plan to hike, stretch your stay for afew extra days, allowing time to ply the trails wending through the highlands' teeming forests;outdoors enthusiasts will get a lot of mileage from basing themselves at a guesthouse withhiking expertise, like Father's.
Where to stay
The Cameron Highlands encompass a cluster of towns and villages. Mode of transport shoulddictate where you base yourself. If you're arriving by public transport and don't plan to rent acar, stay in Tanah Rata, the highlands' main traveller hub. Bus links will connect you toBrinchang and Boh for day trips, and hiking trails begin right from the outskirts of town. You'll alsonever be short of cheap eats. For good value with decent connections, but more of alocal tourism feel, try Snooze in Brinchang.
For travellers planning to road-trip their way around the Cameron Highlands, Tanah Rata is stilla good choice for its amenities and eateries. But with your own wheels, you are free to try outsome of the highlands' more charismatic places to stay, like Bala’s Holiday Chalet. Higher budgetscan take advantage of the relaxing Strawberry Park Resortor the country manoratmosphere at the Smokehouse or Lakehouse.
